Disappointed that your concealer settles into fine lines, makes your under eyes look cakey, dry or even dull?
I’m gonna share 4 tips to minimize & even eliminate these problems.
No more panda eyes for you 🐼
No matter what makeup look I’m doing I always apply the eye makeup first. This is because I love a clean, bright under eye area. Once the eye makeup is applied, I use a sorbolene based moisturiser to clean up any fall out.
I then proceed with skin prep & foundation, only taking the foundation up to the lower orbital bone. The less layers applied in this area the more flawless the concealer will appear. The steps below are how I apply my clients’ makeup & what I teach in my Masterclasses.
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1.Prep the Skin Under Your Eyes
First rule regarding every makeup application is to prep the skin, under eye skin is no different.
Using an eye cream day & night is the best way to keep under eye skin hydrated & moisterised. Dry skin under the eyes will have texture & products laid over this skin will not look smooth. For a big event it’s a great idea to apply under-eye patches the day before to hydrate & depuff this area. (Make sure you’ve used them in the past to avoid any sensitivities)
I apply a gentle hyaluronic acid serum to assist a plumping effect. Serums are a lot lighter than creams & tend to be more readily absorbed. Allow the serum to dry before you proceed to any colour correcting or concealer application.
Sephora HYA/PGA Hydrating Serum
2.Colour Correction
You only need to take this step if you have a true pigment change from your facial skin to the skin under your eyes. We’re talking true purple/blue discolouration under your eyes. Remember the less layers in this area the less settling into fine lines. Only apply where needed. Look into a mirror & tip your chin down & apply to the darkest areas, either by patting in with your finger or a concealer brush. Tap, tap, tap, never swipe. Allow the corrector to dry down.
If you are fair skinned a pink/peach tinted corrector will work best & not end up looking grey & ashy.
For very dark under eyes, I have added the slightest hint of red lipstick into concealer & it has worked perfectly.
The more golden your complexion, peachier/orange correctors are going to work best for you.
If you have a darker skin tone an orange/red is going to be most effective in hiding any discolouration.
Huda Beauty Fauxfilter Colour Corrector
3.Now it’s Time for Concealer
With the colour correcting complete, I go in with a full coverage concealer a shade or two lighter than the foundation colour, to really brighten & add a youthful glow.
Be strategic. Apply sparingly to the inner corner & outer corner of your eyes. You don’t need to do a big sweep right along the entire under eye area. By the time you’ve tapped with your finger or tapped it into place with your concealer brush, your concealer will have blended out across the under-eye region.
I like to blend with the brush & then go in & use the heat of my fingers to emulsify the product even more. Once this is done you can blend out the edges.
elf Camo Hydrating Concealer
BK Beauty Concealer Brushes A506 & 114
4.Set Your Concealer
Now it’s time to let that concealer dry down, never go in immediately with your powder. So, do your lips, add your blush, contour.
When you think it has dried down tap it gently with your finger. If you notice any creases, make sure to blend them out before adding the powder.
Pick up a minimal amount of a finely milled powder on a small powder brush & gently pat into the concealer to set it in place.
Easy, peasey 🌸
Just remember less is more
Remember no swiping…pat, pat, pat…
To view a video of these techniques, hit the link which will take you to my Instagram page. In the video I primed my model’s eyes after skin prep. I usually do a full makeup as described above 😘
Instagram video
I’m always happy to answer any of your makeup questions, just hit the link below & get in touch